• ¾ ounce (about ½ cup) dried porcini (or other wild mushrooms)
• 2 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil
• 1 large jalapeño or 2 serrano chiles, stemmed and finely chopped
• 1 medium white onion, coarsely chopped
• 1 large ripe tomato, coarsely chopped
• 3 tablespoons full-flavored beer
• 8 ounces Monterey jack cheese, shredded (about 2 cups)
• About a dozen war, corn or flour tortillas

DIRECTIONS:

1. Place mushrooms into a small bowl, cover with boiling water, weight with a plate to keep mushrooms submerged, and let rehydrate for 20 minutes.  Drain off liquid, pressing on mushrooms to remove all of the water.  Chop into ¼-inch pieces.
2. Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium0high heat.  Add chiles, onion, tomato, and mushrooms and cook, stirring until onion begins to softened and brown, 7 to 8 minutes.  Add beer and stir until liquid has evaporated and mixture looks dry.
3. Reduce heat to medium-low, sprinkle cheese evenly over vegetables and stir slowly and constantly until cheese is just melted.  Immediately scoop into a warm serving dish (a small fondue dish over tea light is ideal) and serve with warm tortillas for making soft tacos.

SERVES 6 AS A LIGHT APPETIZER

• 6 corn tortillas
• Vegetable oil for frying
• 4 garlic cloves, peeled and left whole
• 1 small white onion, sliced
• 2 dried pasilla chiles (or 1 dried ancho), stemmed, seeded, and torn into several flat pieces
• 1 14.5-ounce can whole tomatoes in juice, drained
• 6 cups chicken broth
• 1 large sprig fresh epazote, if available
• 6 ounces Mexican queso fresco, feta, or other crumbly fresh cheese, cut into ½-inch cubes
• 1 large ripe avocado, peeled, pitted and cut into ½-inch cubes
• 1 large lime, cut into wedges

DIRECTIONS:

1. Cut tortillas in half, then into ¼-inch strips.  In a medium-large saucepan, heat ½ inch of oil over medium heat until shimmering (not smoking.)  Add half of the tortilla strips.  Cook, stirring, until golden-brown and crispy.  With a slotted sppon, scoop out tortilla strips and drain on paper towels.  Repeat with remaining tortillas.
2. Pour off all but a thin coating of hot oil from the saucepan and return to heat.  Add garlic and onion and cook, stirring regularly, until golden, about 7 minutes.  Use a slotted spoon to scoop out garlic and onion, pressing them against side of pan to leave behind as much oil as possible.  Transfer garlic and onion to a blender or food processor.
3. Add chile pieces to pan.  Cook, turning quickly, for about 30 seconds.  Remove and drain on paper towels.  Set pan aside.
4. Add tomatoes to blender or food processor containing garlic and onion, and process to a smooth purée.  Set saucepan over medium-high heat.  When hot, and purée and cook, stirring, until it has thickened to the consistency of tomato paste, about 10 minutes.  Add broth and epazote (if using), bring to a boil, then partially cover and gently simmer over medium-low heat for 30 minutes.  Season to taste with salt.
5. To serves, divide cheese and avocado among soup bowls.  Ladle broth into each bowl, top with tortilla strips, and crumble on a little toasted chile.  Serve with lime edges.

SERVES 6 AS A FIRST COURSE, 4 AS A LIGHT MAIN DISH

• 2/3 cup vegetable or mild olive oil
• 1 cup all-purpose flour
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 2 small green bell peppers, chopped
• 3 large garlic cloves, chopped
• 2 14.5 ounce cans diced tomatoes, including juice
• 5 cups canned chicken broth and/or water
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon dried basil
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 ½ teaspoons cayenne pepper, or to taste
• ½ pound fresh or frozen okra, sliced
• ½ pint shucked oysters (8 ounces), including their liquor
• 1 pound peeled medium shrimp
• ½ pound claw, backfin, or lump crabmeat
• ½ cup chopped fresh parsley

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a large heavy-Bottomed pot over medium-high heat, combine the oil and flour and cook, stirring constantly, until mixture begins to brown and smells like popcorn.  Reduce heat to medium and continue cooking and stirring until roux is the color of milk chocolate, for a total cooking time of 20 to 30 minutes.

2. Stir in onion, green pepper, and garlic and add tomatoes, broth, thyme, basil, bay leaf, black pepper, and cayenne.  Simmer for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Add okra and bring to a boil.  Add oysters and shrimp, and simmer for 3 minutes.  Add crab and simmer for 1 minute more.  Serve in bowls, sprinkled with parsley.

SERVES 6 TO 8

Aïoli:

• 1 large garlic clove
• ¼ teaspoon salt
• ½ bottled mayonnaise
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 tablespoon orange juice

Bouillabaisse:

• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 4 large garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 14.5 ounce can stewed tomatoes, including juice
• 2 cups bottled clam juice
• 1 teaspoon fennel seed
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon dried tarragon
• 1 bay leaf
• 8 small hard-shell clams, scrubbed
• ½ pound mussels, scrubbed
• ½ pound shrimp (medium or larger), shelled and deveined if desired
• ½ pound sea or bay scallops, rinsed
• ½ pound haddock, cod, halibut, sea bass, or other firm-fleshed fish fillet, cut into 2-inch pieces

• 1 baguette, cut into 1-inch slices and lightly toasted
• ½ cup chopped fresh parsley leaves

DIRECTIONS:

1. Make the aïoli: Mash garlic together with salt to form a paste.  In a small bowl, stir together mayonnaise, garlic paste, cayenne, and orange juice.  Set aside.

2. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat oil over medium heat.  Add onion and garlic and cook until softened, about 5 minutes.  Add tomatoes, clam juice, fennel seed, thyme, tarragon, and bay leaf and simmer; partially covered, for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally and breaking up tomatoes.

3. Add clams and mussels to simmering soup, and cover pot.  Every minute or so, using tongs, remove any opened clams or mussels, reserving them in a bowl.  After 10 minutes, remove and discard any unopened shells.  Add shrimp, scallops, and fish and simmer, covered, for 5 minutes.

4. Divide clams and mussels among large soup bowls and ladle soup and seafood on top.  Spread toasts generously with aïoli, and float one on each serving. (Serve remaining aïoli and toasts separately.)  Sprinkle each serving with parsley.

SERVES 4 TO 6

INGREDIENTS:

• 6 ounces salt pork, rind trimmed and cut into ½-inch dice
• 1 large onion, chopped
• 1 cup chopped celery
• 3 cups peeled, diced russet or Yukon gold potatoes (about 3 medium)
• 4 cups bottled clam juice
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon dried thyme
• 2 dozen medium hard-shell clams, scrubbed well
• 1 cup heavy cream
• ½ cup chopped fresh parsley

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a large heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, cook the salt pork, stirring often, until brown and crisp. Transfer pork with a slotted spoon to a bowl. Set aside.

2. Pout off all but about 2 tablespoons of fat from the pot. Add onion and celery and cook over medium heat, stirring, until softenedabout 5 minutes. Add potatoes, clam juice, bay leaf, and thyme, and bring to a boil.

3. Add clams to soup, and cover pot. Every minute or so, using tongs, remove any opened clams, transferring them to a bowl. After 15 minutes, remove and discard any unopened clams.

4. Remove and chop clam meat, discarding shells, and add to chowder with any juices. Add cream and pepper to taste, and bring to a simmer. Stir in salt pork and serve chowder sprinkled with parsley.

SERVES 4 TO 6

INGREDIENTS:

• ½ cup vegetable oil
• 2 cups thinly sliced shallots (about 4 large)
• 1 tablespoon peeled and minced fresh ginger
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 tablespoon curry powder
• 2 14.5 ounce cans zesty diced tomatoes, including juice
• 1 cup bottled clam juice or chicken broth
• ¼ teaspoon hot red pepper flakes, or to taste
• 1 cup canned unsweetened coconut milk
• 1 pound cleaned squid (calamari)
• ½ pound sea scallops, rinsed
• 1 pound mahi mahi, haddock, bass, or other firm fish fillets

• Cooked rice as an accompaniment
• ½ cup chopped fresh cilantro

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat oil over medium-high heat. Add shallots in batches and cook until golden. Transfer them to brown paper with a slotted spoon, and sprinkle with salt. Set aside.

2. Remove pot from heat, add ginger, garlic, and curry, and stir 1 minute. Add tomatoes, clam juice, and pepper flakes and simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Stir in coconut milk, squid, scallops, and fish and simmer, stirring gently, for 10 minutes or until seafood is cooked through.

3. Ladle curry over some rice in bowls and top with fried shallots and cilantro.

SERVES 4 TO 6

INGREDIENTS:

• 4 tablespoons butter
• 2 cups chopped scallions, white and green parts (about 2 bunches)
• 2 yellow bell peppers, diced
• 5 cups fish stock, clam juice, or chicken broth
• 4 cups peeled, diced russet or Yukon gold potatoes (about 4 medium)
• 1 ½ pounds skinned salmon fillet, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh dill
• 1 cup heavy cream

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, melt butter over medium heat. Add scallions and peppers and cook, stirring, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add stock and potatoes and simmer until potatoes are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

2. Purée 2 cups of the soup in a blender until smooth, and return to pan. Add salmon and simmer until just cooked through, about 5 minutes. Stir in dill, cream, and salt and pepper to taste.

3. Add clams to soup, and cover pot. Every minute or so, using tongs, remove any opened clams, transferring them to a bowl. After 15 minutes, remove and discard any unopened clams.

4. Remove and chop clam meat, discarding shells, and add to chowder with any juices. Add cream and pepper to taste, and bring to a simmer. Stir in salt pork and serve chowder sprinkled with parsley.

SERVES 4 TO 6

INGREDIENTS:

Chili:

• 1 28-ounce can (or 2 15-ounce cans) cannellini beans, divided
• 1 14.5 ounce can diced tomatoes
• 1 or 2 canned chipotles in adobo sauce, plus 2 tablespoons of the sauce
• ¼ pound bacon (4 thick slices), cut into thin strips
• 1 yellow onion, finely diced
• 1 green bell pepper, finely diced
• 1 tablespoon chili powder
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1 cup light beer
• 2 ½ cups diced roast chicken (skin removed), and any juices
• ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme

Herb-lime cream:

• 1 cup sour cream
• ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
• 1 lime, grated zest and juice
• ½ teaspoon kosher salt
• ½ teaspoon black pepper

DIRECTIONS:

1. In a food processor, purée 1 cup of the beans with tomatoes and their juices, chipotles, and adobo sauce. Set aside.

2. In a large, sturdy Dutch oven or heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat, cook bacon, stirring occasionally, until browned and most of the fat is rendered, about 6 minutes. Transfer to a large plate lined with paper towels.

3. Add onion and bell pepper to pot, sprinkle generously with salt, and cook, stirring until vegetables softened, about 8 minutes. Add chili powder and cumin and cook, stirring for 1 minute, Add beer, raise heat to high, and cook, stirring, until liquid almost completely reduces, about 3 minutes. Add puréed bean mixture and the remaining beans and bringing to a boil. Reduce to a simmer, stir in chicken, cilantro, and thyme, and cook, covered, until mixture heats through and thickens, about 15 minutes. Season chili with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Meanwhile, make the herb-lime cream by mixing all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

5. To serve, ladle chili into large bowls and top with a healthy dollop of lime cream.

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS:

• 2 packages (10 ounces each) frozen mashed winter squash, thawed
• 1 can (14 ounces) light coconut milk
• ½ cup chopped onion
• 1 tablespoon coarsely chopped fresh jalapeño, or more or less to taste
• 1 teaspoon chopped garlic
• 1 teaspoon coarse salt
• 2 teaspoons curry powder, preferably Madras
• 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
• ½ cup plain yogurt
• 1 tablespoon torn fresh cilantro leaves (optional)

DIRECTIONS:

1. In blender or food processor, combine the squash, coconut milk, onion, jalapeño, garlic, and salt. Blend or process until mixture is smooth and creamy.

2. Sprinkle the curry powder into a large saucepan. Heat over low heat until curry powder releases its aroma, about 30 seconds. Cool slightly. Add the squash and coconut milk mixture. Heat over medium heat until mixture begins to boil, about 8 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and ladle into bowls.

3. Garnish each bowl with a swirl of yogurt and a few cilantro leaves.

SERVES 4

INGREDIENTS:

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 ½ cups coarsely chopped onion
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 6 cups low-sodium chicken broth or homemade chicken stock
• 1 pound Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ½ inch cubes
• ½ pound kale such as dinosaur kale, Russian kale, Swiss chard, or other fresh green, ribs removed and discarded, leaves washed, and coarsely chopped
• 2 cups diced canned tomatoes (preferably San Marzano)
• 1 sprig fresh rosemary
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 pound ham, cut into ½-inch cubes
• 1 cup cooked small white beans, if you are lucky enough to find them)
• 2 cups fresh or frozen peas
• 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper to taste
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Garnish:

• Good quality extra virgin olive oil
• Freshly grated good-quality Parmesan cheese

INGREDIENTS:

1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan or soup pot over medium-high heat and add the onions, garlic, and a sprinkle of salt and pepper, and stirring frequently, cook until the onions are translucent and beginning to brown, about 10 minutes.

2. Add the stock, potatoes, and greens. Bring the liquid to a boil over high heat, decrease the heat to maintain a simmer, and cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes. Wrap the rosemary and bay leaves in a tied cheesecloth bundle and add to the soup with the tomatoes, ham, and beans. Cook at a low simmer for 15 minutes. Add the peas and cook 5 minutes more. Remove and discard the herb bundle and season to taste with the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Stir in the minced parsley.

3. Ladle into heated soup bowls and serve hot with the finishing garnishes, a drizzle of olive oil and sprinkling of grated Parmesan cheese.

SERVES 8